Nýidalur is a mountain hut in the middle of nowhere, at about eight hundred metres, on the long, empty route of Sprengisandur that runs through the centre of Iceland. It sits in a green valley called Jökuldalur between two great ice caps, Hofsjökull to the west and Vatnajökull to the east, with the peak of Tungnafellsjökull rising nearby, and the whole landscape around it is a vast desert of black gravel and lava, with only a few patches of moss and grass. It is about as remote as you can get in Europe.
The hut is run by the Icelandic Touring Association, and has a warden in summer, a campsite and basic rooms for walkers and riders. It is a lifeline for those crossing the highland, and a fine place to stop for the night, with a stream running by and an enormous sky above. In the evening, the light is long and low, and the silence is complete. The road to the hut is a rough track, but it is an unforgettable place to rest, and the people you meet here are likely to be good company.
Sprengisandur was once one of the main routes across the island, used by farmers and travellers in the days before cars, and many people are said to have disappeared in the desert, as the weather can turn very fast. Folklore has it that outlaws hid in the interior, and ghosts and trolls are said to haunt it. Today, the route is open only in summer, usually from early July to September, and crossing it needs a sturdy machine, good preparation and careful attention to the rivers.
The hut sells nothing, so bring food, water and a stove, and keep your phone charged, though coverage is patchy. If the weather turns bad, it is better to stay put and wait than to push on.