Ntsoudjini lies on the western coast of Grande Comore, a short ride from Moroni, and it is one of those places where the island's volcanic past is easy to see. The village sits among black lava rock that spilled from Karthala, and the coast beside it is a jagged line of dark stone, with natural pools and small coves where the sea comes in with a hiss. Behind the village the land rises gently to fields of coconut palms, mango trees and banana plants.
It is a small community of about four thousand people, with the quiet rhythm you find outside the capital. Women in bright wraps carry loads on their heads, men gather at the mosque after prayer, and children chase each other along the streets. The Comoros are among the poorest countries in the world, but the hospitality is generous, and a visitor who greets people in French or a few words of Comorian is met with a smile. The main language is Shikomori, related to Swahili, written in the past with the Arabic script.
The road here runs along the coast, a worn but rideable strip of asphalt with potholes, speed bumps and goats, and frequent bends where it hugs the rock. It is better enjoyed slowly. At midday the heat is heavy, and the best time is early morning, when the light is low and the air smells of salt and cooking fires. In the afternoon, clouds often gather on the slopes of Karthala, and a sudden shower can turn the road slick. From the shore you can see the dark shape of the volcano, usually wrapped in cloud, and occasionally the summit shows clear.
Moroni, only about five kilometers away, has the fuel stations, shops and small restaurants a rider needs, and the town of Itsandra to the north has more of the same. Supplies are not always reliable, so top up when you can and carry water. Phone coverage is generally good near the capital but weaker in the hills.
Eat grilled fish and coconut rice in the evening, and watch the sun go down over the Indian Ocean. The sunsets here are very fine.