Zuramt is another of the valleys that open off Noyon Uul, and it feels a little wilder than its neighbours. The slopes on the north side of each hill are covered in dark larch and pine, while the south sides are open grass, and the pattern gives the whole range a striped, patchwork look. Streams run down through meadows full of wildflowers in June and July, with edelweiss, gentians and wild onions, and the air smells of thyme and woodsmoke. This is a land of nomadic herders, who move their animals between summer and winter pastures, and in the valleys you will see the round white gers, the horses tethered outside and the wooden frames for drying cheese.
The tombs of the Xiongnu lie hidden in the area, as they do throughout the range. They are marked by shallow square depressions in the ground, often among trees, and to the untrained eye they look like nothing, which is partly why they survived. The people here have lived among them for generations and treat them with a certain wariness. An ovoo, a cairn of stones and sticks, stands at the high point of each pass, and travellers walk around it three times clockwise and add a stone, to ask for a safe journey. It is a good custom to follow.
The riding is demanding and wonderful. Tracks follow the valley floors, with fords, soft patches and steep, rocky climbs, and in wet weather the clay becomes treacherous. Navigation is by compass and landmark rather than signposts, so go with a guide or a good map, and ride with others if you can. Weather swings from hot sun to hail in an afternoon, and dogs guarding the herds can be aggressive, so slow down when you pass a ger.
Fuel is in Dzuunharaa, about thirty-four kilometres from the valley, and there is none in the hills, so fill up and carry spare. The best time is July and August, when the roads are dry and the grass is green. If you are lucky, a family will offer you fermented mare's milk, which is an acquired taste, or a bowl of noodle soup, and the hospitality is generous.