Novorossiysk occupies a deep bay on the northeastern shore of the Black Sea, and the first thing locals mention about it is the wind. The bora, a cold, dry gale that pours down from the mountains in winter, can blow at more than forty metres a second, strong enough to knock down fences, freeze spray on ships and force the port to close. It happens a few times a year, and the Novorossiysk bora is known across the Black Sea region. The town sits at the edge of the Caucasus, where the mountains drop to the sea, with a low pass behind it.
The city's history is a story of ports and war. It was founded in 1838 as a Russian fort, grew into a major port for exporting grain and later oil, and became a naval base. In the Second World War it was the scene of fierce fighting, and a small bridgehead on the western side of the bay, known as Malaya Zemlya, was held by Soviet troops for more than a year against German attack. A large memorial complex now stands there, and the city holds the title of Hero City. Cement is also a major industry, and the quarries and factories give parts of the town a white dusty look.
Just west of the city, on the road toward Anapa, is Abrau-Dyurso, a village on a small freshwater lake that is famous for sparkling wine. The Russian tsar Alexander II set up a royal winery here in 1870, with French techniques, and the cellars still produce Russian champagne. A tour of the vaults, followed by a tasting, is a pleasant way to spend an hour, though a rider should limit the tasting, and the lake and the surrounding hills are very pretty.
The coastal roads around Novorossiysk are varied. To the north, the road to Anapa runs along cliffs and steppe, with views of the sea, and the surface is generally decent. To the southeast, the road toward Gelendzhik climbs over a forested ridge and offers sea views. Summer traffic is heavy, and in winter strong winds can make riding on exposed sections uncomfortable.
Fuel and services are easy in the city, which has a population of a quarter of a million. The sea is warm from July to September, the best months for the coast are May and September, and the bora season is from November to March, so check the forecast.