Nova Petrópolis is the German town that grew into a garden. It sits in the Serra Gaúcha, on the plateau above the river valleys of Rio Grande do Sul, and its streets, squares and hedges are kept with a fussiness that would impress a Bavarian council. The town was founded in the 1850s by German immigrants, and its identity is still bound up with that history, with half-timbered buildings, choirs, folk dance groups and menus that arrive with sauerkraut, sausages and thick cakes.
The most famous of the town's gardens is the Labirinto Verde, a hedge maze laid out in a pattern of walls and corridors, and a pleasing place to waste an hour. The Praça das Flores in the centre is a plant-filled square with trees, flowerbeds and a view of the church. Nearby, the Parque Aldeia do Imigrante is a village of reconstructed early houses, showing how the settlers lived, with old tools and costumes. The town also hosts an international choir festival, and in the evening you may hear voices drifting from a church, because singing is an important part of local life.
A piece of history here goes beyond the pretty gardens: in 1902, a Jesuit priest, Theodor Amstad, helped found the first credit cooperative in Brazil in the district of Linha Imperial, and the town still describes itself as the cradle of Brazilian cooperatives. The idea was simple, that poor farmers could pool their savings and lend to each other, and it spread across the country and grew into a large financial network. It is an unusual claim to fame, and the town is proud of it.
The riding on the Rota Romântica between Nova Petrópolis and Gramado is a relaxed run through hills, with pines, hydrangea hedges and gentle bends. The surface is generally good, with some patches, and traffic can thicken on weekends and holidays, when visitors flood in from Porto Alegre. Morning fog is common in the cooler months, and rain showers sweep in quickly, so a layer is useful. The scenery is mostly small farms, plantations and orchards, with flowers along the verges in spring.
Nova Petrópolis is large enough to have fuel stations, cafes and supermarkets, so there is no problem in stopping. For food, look for a café colonial, the traditional spread of breads, cakes, cold cuts, jams and coffee that is served in the afternoon. Try the cuca, a German-style crumb cake, and buy a jar of local honey or jam to take with you.