Bygdin is a long, narrow mountain lake lying like a blade between steep slopes, and the Valdresflye road runs along part of its edge. At roughly 1,060 metres above the sea it is already in the zone where the trees thin out and the weather takes over, and on a calm day the surface reflects the peaks so cleanly that you have to look twice to see which way up the world is.
The riding here is some of the best in southern Norway. The road follows the contours with long, easy bends and sudden views, and it then climbs toward the plateau with surprising grace. Gradients are modest, and the surface is generally in good condition, though frost heave can leave soft spots in spring. The wind across the lake can be strong, and in cloud the temperature drops so quickly that gloves and a warm layer are no luxury.
An old steamer-style boat has carried passengers on Bygdin for generations, a reminder that for much of history water was the highway of these mountains, long before the road came. A traditional mountain hotel stands near the water, and the area has long drawn painters, walkers and anglers who came for the trout and the quiet.
Nature in the area is stern but beautiful. The vegetation is low, with dwarf birch, heather and crowberry covering the slopes, and at the right time of year the moors turn red and gold. Reindeer graze in the high country, and the air is thin, cold and clean enough that you can taste it. If the cloud lifts, the snowfields of the Jotunheimen glow in the distance.
The area is sparsely served, with a few mountain lodges and stopping places, and Beitostølen to the south and Fagernes beyond are the places for proper supplies. The Valdresflye road is a seasonal route, usually open from late spring to autumn, so check the dates. Go in the morning, when the lake is stillest and the light flat and silvery.