The top of the Sognefjellet has the air of another planet, and I mean the cold, bare, magnificent kind. At about 1,430 metres it is the highest mountain road in northern Europe, and here the vegetation has given up entirely. What is left is rock, lichen, patches of old snow even in summer, and small black lakes that reflect the sky like pieces of slate. The mountains of Jotunheimen ring the horizon, and some of them wear glaciers that glint in the sun.
The riding is wide open. The surface is generally good, the gradients are steady, and the bends are broad enough that you can enjoy the scenery without worrying about the next hairpin. Wind is the real challenge. On a gusty day the plateau exposes you completely, and rain or low cloud can turn a pleasant ride into a cold slog in minutes. Even in July, temperatures can hover close to freezing, so keep warm layers handy.
There is a long history of crossing these mountains. For centuries, farmers, traders and cattle drovers moved between the fjord country and the valley of Gudbrandsdalen over high passes like this, long before a road was built. The modern route owes much to the twentieth century, and it is now one of Norway's national tourist roads, which is a polite way of saying that the views are officially recommended.
Nature rules here. Reindeer wander the high ground, and with luck you might spot one from the saddle. The smell is of cold stone and thin air, and the quiet on a still morning is almost loud. Photographers should aim for early or late in the day when the low sun lights the peaks from the side.
A small mountain lodge and a few simple stopping places exist near the top, but this is no place to expect a full range of services. Lom to the east and the valley settlements to the west are where you will find a proper meal and a bed. The road closes in winter, normally from late autumn to late spring, so be careful with dates.