From the summit of Dalsnibba you look straight down on the Geirangerfjord, and the first reaction is usually silence. The fjord lies about fifteen hundred metres below as a thin, dark, winding groove between the mountains, with a ship the size of a toy at the quay and the village a handful of roofs. It is one of the finest fjords in the world, and together with the Nærøyfjord it carries a UNESCO listing. The sides rise nearly vertical, and the waterfalls that pour from the rim have names that have gone round the world: the Seven Sisters, the Suitor opposite them, and the Bridal Veil.
The fjord was cut by glaciers and then drowned by the sea, which is why it is so deep and narrow. Old mountain farms cling to ledges high above the water, so steep that, according to the stories, farmers tied their children with ropes so they would not fall. Skageflå and Knivsflå are two of the best known, long abandoned and now visited as part of the cultural landscape. Seen from above, they make it easy to understand why people left.
The viewing platform at the top has a car park and a small café building, and on a clear day the whole fjord and the surrounding peaks are in view, with snow on the highest. The wind can be cold and strong, and the light changes quickly, so patience is rewarded: the cloud often clears in a few minutes, and the view comes and goes like a stage curtain. In bad weather the summit can be wrapped in mist, so it is better to check the cloud base before starting up.
This is a short toll road off the main route, and it is only open in the snow-free season. The bends are tight, the surface is paved, and other visitors are generally careful but sometimes distracted. The nearest large villages are Stryn and Stranda, each more than thirty kilometres away, so keep your fuel and supplies in mind. Early morning is the best time for clear air and a quiet summit, before the cruise-ship crowds arrive.