This is the road to Dalsnibba, a mountain with the cheerful reputation of having the highest fjord view in Europe, at about 1,500 metres above Geirangerfjord. The side road is a toll road that climbs from the high plateau at Djupvasshytta in a series of bends to a car park and a viewing platform on the summit. The surface is paved, though the road is narrow and exposed, and it is generally open only in the snow-free months, from about late spring to early autumn. The summit can be in cloud even when the valley is clear, so be ready to turn back if the view is lost.
The plateau itself, near the head of the Geiranger road, is wild country, a bare upland of rock, snow patches and small lakes at about a thousand metres, with sheep drifting over the grass and the peaks standing round like a crowd. Even in July you can see old snow beside the road. The lake near the hut is cold and clear, and the air has a sharpness you do not notice in the fjord below. It is a place where the weather can change in minutes, with cloud, hail, sun and rain taking turns.
The road from Grotli across the plateau is a lovely ride in its own right, with wide curves, long views and little traffic outside the summer weekends. The surface is generally good, and there are plenty of places to pull in. After the stark upland the descent to Geiranger will feel like a different country: hairpins, waterfalls and deep green forest, with the fjord appearing far below. Brakes and engine braking will both be useful.
There are no towns up here. Stryn, about thirty-two kilometres away, and Stranda, about thirty-five, are the nearest larger places, so make sure you have fuel and food before you start. The hut at Djupvasshytta offers refreshments in season. Bring a warm jacket and gloves, and if the sky is clear, take the time to walk to the edge of the platform and look down at a very small, very distant ship.