By now Andøya's boggy flatlands have given way to something more dramatic. The mountains of Vesterålen and the neighbouring island of Hinnøya crowd the view, and the road threads between water and rock, with fjords cutting in from the coast. The scene changes with every turn: bright blue water, steep scree slopes, pastures dotted with farm buildings, and above it all the cloud, which can sit low on the peaks or break open to show a sudden stripe of snow.
Vesterålen is a fishing region and has been for a thousand years. The sea here is rich with cod, and fishermen once rowed out in open boats from small settlements along the shore, the fish being dried on wooden racks to make stockfish for markets as far away as Italy. White-tailed sea eagles are common, and in spring and summer you may see them hunting over the water. In the fjords, porpoises and seals also appear, and the occasional orca is spotted from the road.
For riders this is a satisfying part of the route. The road is mostly well surfaced, with gentle climbs, long views and curves that follow the shore, and there is little traffic outside the summer months. The weather is the main variable: wind and rain can arrive suddenly, and temperatures stay modest even in July, so waterproofs and warm layers are essential. The long summer light means you can ride late into the evening, and the low sun on the water is something you will remember.
Villages along this stretch are small, with a few shops and cafés, but fuel should be planned. Myre is about twenty kilometres away, and Borkenes is about thirty, so it makes sense to top up the tank before a long section. Norwegian roads are well maintained, but speed limits are low and enforced, and cameras are common in towns. Pull over when you see a good view and let faster traffic go by; the point of the ride is not to arrive, but to look.