The island is a patchwork of vineyards, olive groves, pohutukawa-fringed bays and rolling pasture, with winding roads and sudden views of the blue gulf. About nine thousand people live here, many of them commuters, artists and wine makers, and in summer the island fills with visitors drawn by its beaches, restaurants and cellar doors. Pakuranga, on the Auckland side, is the closest large suburb across the water.
Waiheke has a gentle history. Māori settled the island centuries ago and valued it for its sheltered bays and fertile soil, and European farmers arrived in the nineteenth century, followed by a long period as a quiet holiday island of baches. In the late twentieth century, winemakers found that the warm, dry microclimate and clay soils suited red grapes, especially Bordeaux-style blends, and the island's reputation grew. The main village, Oneroa, has a pretty beach, shops and cafés, and Onetangi, on the north coast, has a long surf beach.
Taking a motorcycle across is a matter of planning. A vehicle ferry runs from the Auckland side, so check timetables and book ahead, since space is limited, especially at weekends. The island roads are narrow, hilly and winding, with gravel patches, blind corners and few barriers, and the speed limit is low. Sheep, cyclists and tourists on hired scooters are all part of the traffic. In wet weather, the clay can be slippery, and the roads are patched.
Fuel is available on the island, though choices are limited, so it is sensible to fill the tank in Auckland before boarding. The northern ride to the Bay of Islands is a long haul, about two hundred kilometres from the city, along State Highway 1 and then smaller roads through Whangārei, so start early. Summer is warm and busy, and winter is mild and quiet, with empty beaches. Take the evening ferry back, with the city's lights spreading across the water, for the best view.