North Conway is the busy heart of the Mount Washington Valley, a small town of about two thousand people that fills at weekends with skiers, hikers, leaf-peepers and shoppers. The reason is the setting: the valley is a broad, flat basin ringed by the high, rocky peaks of the White Mountains, with the Saco River winding slowly through meadows, and the great granite cliffs of Cathedral Ledge and White Horse Ledge rising straight above the town. Mount Washington, the highest summit in the northeastern United States at 1,917 metres, lies to the northwest, and is famous for having some of the worst weather on earth.
The town grew with the railway, and the handsome old station, built in 1874, now serves a scenic railway that runs excursion trains up the valley. In the nineteenth century, the valley attracted painters of the White Mountain school, who made the cliffs and meadows famous in grand canvases, and large hotels sprang up to house visitors. Today the main street is a long strip of outlet stores, restaurants and outdoor shops, made busy by New Hampshire's lack of a sales tax. It is a lively, practical place with fuel, food and rooms of every price.
For riders, it is a gateway to some of the finest roads in New England. The Kancamagus Highway, a thirty-four-mile pass road from Conway to Lincoln, climbs through dense forest over a high saddle, with long, flowing curves, pull-offs by rushing brooks and spectacular autumn colour. Route 16 north goes through Pinkham Notch to Gorham, a mountain road with views of Mount Washington, and the notch roads of Crawford, Franconia and Kinsman each offer something different.
Weather changes rapidly in the mountains, with fog, rain and sudden cold, so carry a rain suit and warm layers. Autumn weekends are very busy, and the Kancamagus can crawl with traffic, so go on a weekday or at dawn. Summer is pleasant, and winter closes some passes. Moose are a danger at dusk, especially on the notch roads, and they are huge. Stop for a coffee and a pastry at one of the bakeries on the main street, then start early.