The Bealach na Bà is the nearest thing Britain has to an Alpine pass. Its name, the Pass of the Cattle, comes from the drovers who once took their herds over it, and the road that now follows the old route climbs from sea level at Tornapress to about 626 metres in just a few kilometres, with gradients of up to one in five. The road was opened in 1822. Applecross, down the far side, is only a handful of kilometres from the summit.
On a motorbike, it is a short, sharp test. The road is single-track with passing places, and the hairpins near the top are tight, steep and have long drops with no barrier. The surface is rough in places, and in wet or misty weather it can be slippery. Take the corners in a low gear, keep to the left, and be ready to stop for oncoming traffic, especially campervans, which struggle on the bends. On a clear day the view from the summit stretches over the sea to Skye, Raasay and the Outer Hebrides, a view that makes the climb worthwhile.
Up here the landscape is bare rock and peat, with a few hardy plants and the odd herd of red deer. The ground is among the oldest in Europe, Torridonian sandstone that was laid down a billion years ago, and the mountains that surround the pass, Beinn Bhàn and Sgùrr a' Chaorachain, are rugged and bare. Golden eagles are sometimes seen overhead, and ptarmigan on the high ground.
There is a car park and a viewpoint at the top, but no services. The nearest reliable fuel is at Lochcarron, on the eastern side, or at the larger villages elsewhere, so plan your tank before you climb. The pass is usually open, but it can close in snow and ice, and the road authority advises against it for caravans and large vehicles. Even in summer, mist can drop on the summit in minutes, so a warm layer is sensible.