Applecross sits at the end of a road that most of Scotland would rather not drive. The village faces west across the Inner Sound to the Isle of Raasay and the Cuillin ridge of Skye, a row of whitewashed houses along a sheltered bay, and its Gaelic name, A' Chomraich, means the sanctuary. In 673 an Irish monk, Maelrubha, founded a monastery here, and the sanctuary around it was a place of refuge for centuries. The hills of Skye fill the view across the water, though Portree is a very long way off by road.
There are two ways to reach the village. The old one is the Bealach na Bà, a pass climbing to over six hundred metres in a series of hairpins on a single-track road, and the other is the longer coastal road from Shieldaig, which winds along the shore through woodland and bog. Both are narrow, with passing places, and the coastal route is the easier choice in bad weather. Take care with the sheep and the highland cattle, which graze on the verge and have right of way.
The village is a place to rest. A well-known inn on the shore serves seafood caught in the local waters, and a walled garden and a heritage centre tell something of the peninsula's story. The sea view from the benches by the shore, with the Skye hills on the horizon, is a fine reward for the long road. Sunsets in summer are late, and the light can be spectacular, with the sky glowing orange behind the islands.
Do not assume you can buy petrol in the village. Fill up before you commit to either road, at Lochcarron or at one of the bigger villages on the way, and treat anything you find here as a bonus. A few places offer rooms, and booking ahead is a good idea in summer, since there are not many beds. The coastal road is usually open throughout the year, but the Bealach na Bà can close in snow, and in winter it is best avoided. Midges are a nuisance on still summer evenings, so carry repellent.