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Norheimsund

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Norheimsund is a quiet village on the north shore of the Hardangerfjord, the long, deep fjord that cuts into western Norway, and it is the capital of Norwegian fruit country. The climate here, tempered by the fjord, allows apples, plums, pears and cherries to ripen on terraces above the water, and in May the orchards bloom white and pink, with the Folgefonna glacier shining across the water. In autumn, farm stands sell apples, juice and cider, and the fjord road smells of ripe fruit.

The village itself is small, a cluster of white wooden houses, a harbor, a waterfront and a church, but it has a bustling air in summer, when cruise boats and cyclists arrive. Close by, the Steinsdalsfossen, a waterfall of about fifty meters, drops in a graceful veil, and a path leads behind it, so you can stand between rock and falling water. The Hardanger region is also known for its violin, the hardingfele, with sympathetic strings, and for a delicate form of embroidery.

The roads here are some of the loveliest in the country. Route 7 follows the fjord shore, with gentle bends, tunnels and views across water to the mountains, and a bit farther on, the Hardanger Bridge, a graceful suspension span opened in 2013, crosses the fjord in a single long arc. Ferries cross the fjord at several points, and side roads climb through orchards to high farms. The surface is excellent, but Norwegian speed limits are low and strictly enforced, with fixed and mobile cameras, so keep to them. Tunnels can be damp and long, and rain is frequent.

Norheimsund has fuel, a supermarket and cafes, and it is the main service point on this side of the fjord. Øystese, a few kilometers east, has a small museum and more shops. The best time is mid-May for blossom, or September for apples and clear light, though summer is also lovely, with long evenings. In winter, snow closes some mountain roads. The weather on the west coast is changeable, so pack waterproofs, and expect cloud over the peaks.

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