The red cliffs of the Amaghu gorge close in around you for the last few kilometres, and then Noravank appears, a small honey-coloured church perched against a wall of rust-coloured rock. The name means new monastery, though it was founded in the thirteenth century, and it stands in the Vayots Dzor province in southern Armenia, in a dry, rocky country of canyons, vineyards and apricot orchards. The setting is a large part of the effect. Crimson cliffs rise on both sides, the stream runs far below, and the church looks as though it grew from the stone.
The star building is the church of the Holy Mother of God, built in the early fourteenth century by the architect and sculptor Momik, who is buried nearby. It has two storeys, with a narrow exterior staircase leading to the upper level, a feature that was unusual in Armenian architecture, and the carvings on the facade, with their delicate reliefs of saints and angels, are among the finest of the period. Momik also carved some of the most beautiful khachkars in the country, and a famous one stands in the grounds. The Orbelian princes, who ruled the region, had Noravank as their family burial place, and the monastery became a centre of learning.
The road in is the final part of the ride, a narrow, twisting road that follows the gorge. It is a mixture of good tarmac and rough patches, with sharp bends, falling rock and the occasional herd of goats. It is worth taking slowly, partly for safety and partly for the view of the cliffs changing colour in the light. Early morning is best, before the tour buses arrive and when the cliffs glow, and in late afternoon the light turns the rock deep red.
This is wine country, one of the oldest in the world. In a cave near Areni, a few kilometres away, archaeologists found the remains of a wine press and fermentation vessels about six thousand years old, as well as a leather shoe thought to be older than Stonehenge. Local winemakers use native grapes such as Areni, and a glass of the red, with its dark cherry taste, is a pleasant reward at the end of the day. Apricots, the national fruit, are in season in July.
Areni, six kilometres away, has a few small shops and wine houses, and Yeghegnadzor, twelve kilometres away, has fuel and larger markets. There is nothing on the road to the monastery itself except a small kiosk, so bring water, and a hat in summer, since it gets hot.