Noordhoek Beach is a long, wide, almost empty sweep of white sand on the western side of the Cape Peninsula, about eight kilometres from end to end. The mountains of the peninsula, steep and blue, rise at the northern end, and the lighthouse at Kommetjie marks the south. Behind the dunes, the valley holds a handful of farms, stables and a village with a cluster of cafes. It feels a long way from the city, though it is not.
The sea is the Atlantic, cold and rough. Water temperatures stay low all year, because the Benguela current brings cold water up from the Antarctic, so even in midsummer a swim is brisk, and rip currents are strong. Most people paddle, walk or ride horses along the sand, and swimming should be done only in places with lifeguards. The sound of the surf is constant, and the air smells of salt and kelp.
A small piece of history sits on the sand. In 1900, a steamship called the Kakapo ran aground here, and the rusting remains of the wreck can still be seen, partly buried, when the tide and sand allow. It is a lonely sight, and a reminder of how dangerous this coast was to ships.
For riders, the beach is the end of a good ride, usually coming down Chapman's Peak Drive from Hout Bay. The roads around Noordhoek are flat and pleasant, with views of the mountains and the sea. Traffic is light, apart from weekends, when visitors arrive from the city. Fuel is not at the beach, so use the stations at Constantia or the larger villages nearby, and fill up before you head south toward Cape Point.
Late in the afternoon the light turns gold, and the surf glows. Take off your boots, walk to the water and let the wind clear your head. Watch the horse riders and the dogs running in the waves, and stay a while.