Nizwá was the capital of Oman for centuries, and it still feels like the heart of the interior. About seventy thousand people live in this oasis city, at the foot of the Hajar Mountains, among date palms watered by falaj channels, the ancient irrigation systems that carry water from the hills by gravity, some of which have been in use for more than a thousand years. UNESCO has recognised the aflaj of Oman for their importance.
The fortress dominates the skyline. Built in the seventeenth century under the Imam Sultan bin Saif Al Ya'rubi, it has a huge round tower, with thick walls and cunning defences, and the view from the top over the palm groves, the souq and the mosque dome is superb. The souq next door sells dates, spices, pottery and silver, including the curved daggers called khanjars that are part of traditional dress, and the smell of frankincense and coffee drifts through the alleys. On Friday mornings, the livestock market draws farmers with goats and cattle, in a lively auction that has been going on for generations.
Then there is the halwa, a sweet, sticky, spiced confection made with sugar, ghee, rose water and nuts, stirred for hours in huge copper pots. It is the town's best known treat, and shops sell it in boxes, with a cup of cardamom coffee.
For riders, Nizwá is a gateway to the mountains. Jebel Akhdar, the Green Mountain, rises north of the town to over two thousand metres, with terraced villages growing pomegranates and roses, and the road up is steep and winding. A police checkpoint at the foot is known to restrict access to certain vehicles, so check the current rules before you plan. Jebel Shams, Oman's highest peak at nearly three thousand metres, lies to the west and has a gorge often called the Grand Canyon of Arabia.
Heat is the main challenge, with summer temperatures well over forty degrees, so ride in the cooler months from October to March, and start early. Dust and sand can drift across the road, and animals, especially camels and goats, wander freely.
Fuel and services are plentiful in Nizwá, with many stations, and Bahla, about twenty-four kilometres away, has more. Fill up here before heading to the mountains, as services are limited, and carry plenty of water.
Go in the late afternoon, when the fort glows gold and the heat eases.