In the south-east of Senegal, where the country presses against Guinea, the Gambia river begins to gather itself, and around its upper reaches lies Niokolo-Koba, one of the largest and oldest national parks in West Africa. It covers nearly a million hectares of savanna, dry forest, gallery woodland and grassy floodplain, and it holds some of the last strongholds of West African wildlife. UNESCO recognised it in 1981, and it has been listed as in danger since 2007, mostly because of poaching and pressure from outside.
The animals are the reason to come. Lions, leopards, hippos and elephants still live here, though in small numbers, and the park is home to the Derby eland, the largest antelope in the world, which survives in few places. Chimpanzees live in the forest corridors, and the birdlife is rich, with hornbills, kingfishers, bee-eaters and many other species. Sightings are not guaranteed, and the vegetation can be dense, but the rewards, when they come, are exceptional. The best time to look is the late dry season, from February to April, when animals gather at the remaining water.
The road is its own adventure. The main national road from Tambacounda to Kedougou crosses the park, and in places it is rough, patched and potholed, with long distances between settlements. Tracks within the park are usually dirt or sand, and many are impassable in the rainy season, from June to October, when the park is largely closed. Heat is intense in the dry months, and the harmattan wind brings dust and haze. A guide is normally required for park entry, and the rules are strictly enforced.
There are no real services within the park, and fuel is limited to the towns, mainly Tambacounda and Kedougou, so carry spare fuel, plenty of water and basic spares. Out toward Dindefello, near the Guinean border, there is a waterfall and a small chimpanzee reserve, and the hills there are green and cooler. Check the security and access situation, particularly near the borders, before you go, and plan with local help.