The shrines at Nikko are among the most lavish in Japan, and they are there because of a single man. Tokugawa Ieyasu, who unified the country and founded the shogunate that ruled for over two and a half centuries, died in 1616 and was enshrined here the following year, in a mountain setting selected for its sacred character. His grandson Iemitsu rebuilt the complex on a grand scale in the 1630s, and the result is Toshogu, a collection of buildings covered in gold leaf, carved animals, flowers and painted beams, set among very tall cedars.
Some of the carvings are famous. The three monkeys, who see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil, are on a stable building. The Sleeping Cat, over a doorway, is small and easy to miss. The Yomeimon, the gate, is so elaborately decorated that it is sometimes called the gate you could look at until sundown. Nearby are Futarasan Shrine and Rinno-ji temple, and the whole complex has been a UNESCO site since 1999. The famous red bridge, Shinkyo, crosses the Daiya River at the foot of the hill.
For the rider, Nikko is a rewarding place at the right time. The old cedar avenue that leads in from the south, planted over decades, is one of the longest of its kind, and its dark, cool shade is a pleasure on a hot day. Parking near the shrines is limited and at busy times it is crowded, so go early on a weekday, and wear shoes you can take off easily, as some buildings require it. The town has fuel and cafes, and the local specialty is yuba, the skin of soy milk, served in many forms.
The approach is by the Nikko-Utsunomiya road, easy and well kept, or from Tokyo on the expressway, about two hours in light traffic. Beyond the town the Irohazaka road climbs to Lake Chuzenji and the high ground, a short ride that is among the best in the region. Autumn is the most colourful season and the most crowded.