Nijmegen calls itself the oldest city in the Netherlands, and it has a good case. The Romans founded a military camp on the hill here in the last years BC, and a town followed, which was given full town rights around AD 100. Many centuries later, on the same hill by the Waal, Charlemagne built a palace, the Valkhof, and Frederick Barbarossa rebuilt it in the twelfth century as a magnificent imperial residence. Little survives except for a chapel and a ruined apse, but the Valkhofpark, with its terraced slopes and view across the river, still marks the site of one of the most important places in the medieval empire.
The Waal, the broadest branch of the Rhine, flows below the park, and the great bridge that spans it was the scene of one of the famous episodes of the Second World War. In September 1944, during Operation Market Garden, American paratroopers crossed the river in canvas boats under fire to capture the bridge, which opened the road north towards Arnhem. The city was damaged by bombing in 1944, and much of it was rebuilt after the war. Every July, the Four Days Marches draw tens of thousands of walkers from around the world through its streets.
For riders, Nijmegen is a city to enjoy at an easy pace. The centre has restrictions on traffic, with narrow lanes, cobbles and cyclists everywhere, and parking is best done at the edge. A short ride to the hills of Berg en Dal and the Ooijpolder gives the nearest thing to curves in the region, and the dike roads along the Waal give wide views. Speed limits are low and cameras are common.
Nijmegen has a population of about one hundred and fifty-nine thousand, and fuel, food and cafes are plentiful. It is a student city, so evenings are lively. Spring and autumn offer the best light for viewing the river, and a stroll in the Valkhofpark at sunset gives a good view across the Waal.