Kopse Hof is the name given to this northern corner of the plateau, and the first thing to say is that the Roman layer is under your feet, not in front of you. For the last few decades Dutch archaeologists have dug across this ridge ahead of every new street and housing block, and what they found was astonishing: ditches, postholes, the outlines of timber barracks, pits and graves, pottery, coins, tools and shoe soles preserved in the wet. A city sits on top of a legionary camp, and the modern streets of Nijmegen run over the old Roman roads.
The Roman town that grew here after the soldiers left was called Noviomagus, which means new market, and the modern city's name descends from it. It was the capital of the Batavian people and one of only two Roman cities in what is now the Netherlands. The Valkhof museum in town shows what has been dug up, from everyday pottery to fine glassware, and is a good way to make sense of the empty fields.
The ride is Dutch in the best sense. Cycle paths give way to quiet streets, then to country lanes between orchards and the gentle hills that mark the edge of the Ice Age moraine. There is almost no gradient in the Netherlands, so the pleasure comes from the changes in scenery, from river to woodland to bulb fields. Fuel is easy throughout. Speed limits are low and enforced, and cameras are common, so ride at the limit and enjoy it.
Locals have a tradition of eating pancakes, pannenkoeken, which you can order savoury with bacon and cheese or sweet with syrup, and which fit well into a tour. Nijmegen is also a student town, so the cafes are lively and cheap.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with fewer tourists and softer weather. Rain can arrive suddenly and waterproofs are wise in any month. In the evening, when the light turns gold, the plateau seems to hold its breath, and you can almost imagine the sound of marching feet.