Under the suburbs of Nijmegen lies the oldest town in the Netherlands, at least according to Nijmegen, and on the Kops Plateau you can see why they say it. In the first century, the Romans chose this long ridge above the river Waal as a base for their legions. It was the perfect spot, a high sandy plateau with the broad river at its feet and a clear view across the flat country to the north. Their camp here, with ramparts, ditches and barracks for thousands of soldiers, was one of the largest military bases on the northern frontier of the empire.
The east side of the plateau has a dramatic story attached. In AD 69 and 70, a Batavian officer called Civilis, who had served in the Roman army, led his own people in a revolt against Rome. Nijmegen was one of his main targets, and the legionary camp was burned. Rome sent a large army to put the revolt down, then rebuilt on the nearby Hunerberg a new fortress, which later grew into a city. What you see on the Kops Plateau today are the traces: banks, ditches and a landscape shaped by army engineers two thousand years ago, now a part of the Lower German Limes listed by UNESCO in 2021.
The ride here is a Dutch one. Roads are smooth and well signed, with cycle lanes beside nearly every road and cyclists behaving as if they own it. Speed limits are strict, with cameras and police who do not forgive, and there are roundabouts every few hundred metres. You will find plenty of fuel in Nijmegen, a lively university city of some one hundred and seventy thousand people, and the nearby suburbs.
Nijmegen is the oldest city in the country, and locals will tell you so with pride. In July the city hosts the Four Days Marches, a walking event that draws tens of thousands of walkers from around the world and fills the streets with flowers and music. Visit a cafe on the market square and sample a local pastry or a Dutch coffee.
Spring brings blossom and tulips, and late summer brings cool, soft light. Winters are grey and damp. Expect wind on the open stretches.