In 1293 the Vietnamese king Trần Nhân Tông, who had led his country to victory against two Mongol invasions, gave up his throne and became a monk. He retreated to the mountains of Yên Tử, east of Hanoi, and founded the Trúc Lâm, or Bamboo Forest, school of Zen Buddhism, a distinctly Vietnamese tradition that still flourishes today. In his final years he lived at a hermitage on the mountain of Ngọa Vân, and it was there that he died in 1308. The pagodas, stupas and relics scattered across the ridge form part of the complex of sites connected with Yên Tử and the Trúc Lâm school, which has recently been recognised by UNESCO.
The hermitage sits high on a forested ridge in Đông Triều, in Quảng Ninh province, reached by a steep path and stone steps through the trees. Along the way are small shrines, old stupas and a stone sculpture said to represent the reclining king. The atmosphere is peaceful and spiritual, with the sound of wind in the trees and the occasional bell. In the spring festival season, after Tết, thousands of pilgrims climb the mountains of Yên Tử to pray, and the paths and roads become very crowded.
The landscape is a mix of forested mountains, limestone hills, rice paddies and coal-mining towns; Quảng Ninh is Vietnam's coal province, and the mines and industry are visible in places. Not far away is Hạ Long Bay, with its thousands of limestone islands rising from the sea, one of the most famous sights in Asia.
The riding to get here is varied. The main roads from Hanoi towards Hạ Long are busy, with heavy truck traffic, and a new expressway carries much of the long-distance traffic, though motorcycles are not allowed on expressways in Vietnam. The smaller roads into the mountains are narrow and winding, with steep gradients and variable surfaces. Watch for buses, trucks, scooters and livestock.
The nearest towns with full services are Đông Triều and Uông Bí, both with fuel, shops and restaurants. Try the local seafood from the coast, or a bowl of phở. The weather is hot and humid in summer, with heavy rain and typhoons possible; winter is cool and damp, with mist on the mountains. Autumn and spring are the most pleasant seasons for riding.