The Tyne is crossed by a remarkable set of bridges within a short walk of each other. The Tyne Bridge, a green steel arch opened in 1928, is the one on the postcards, but the High Level Bridge, designed by Robert Stephenson and opened in 1849 with a road below and a railway above, is the older marvel, and the little Swing Bridge, which opens by pivoting on a central pier, comes from the industrial age as well. Together they show how the city was built on coal, shipbuilding and engineering, and then rebuilt itself on culture, music and a fierce sense of humour.
The Quayside, with its bars and restaurants and the curved Millennium Bridge that tilts to let boats pass, is the lively heart of the town. Up the hill is Grainger Town, a grid of grand Victorian streets in pale stone, designed in the 1830s, and the Castle Keep that gave the city its name. Across the river in Gateshead stands the Angel of the North, Antony Gormley's rust-red figure with a wingspan of fifty-four metres, which watches the A1 from a hill and is best seen at dawn.
Hadrian's Wall begins in the eastern suburbs, at Wallsend, where a Roman fort called Segedunum has been excavated. From there the wall runs west, and the Military Road, the B6318, follows it for long stretches, a straight and rolling road with views over the Northumbrian hills and the wall itself, stone and turf, running along the crest. The day's ride, heading for Chesters, leaves the city by the river valley and soon reaches open farmland and moor. Wind and rain come in from the North Sea, so pack layers, and be careful on the damp lanes.
Fuel is easy in the city and in the market towns, though fewer stations are found out on the moors. Newcastle's classic comforts are a pie, a pint, a stottie cake with pease pudding and ham, or fish and chips. Locals are friendly and fond of a chat, and a Geordie accent is easier to follow once you have had a pint or two. Leave early, and enjoy the open road beyond the suburbs.