Lake Sunapee is the reason for Newbury, and it is reason enough. The lake lies in a basin of low granite hills in western New Hampshire, about nine miles long, ringed by pines and old summer cottages, with Mount Sunapee rising at its southern end. The name comes from an Abenaki word often translated as goose lake, and the water is clear and cold, a pleasure to ride beside on a still morning when mist lifts off the surface.
Newbury is a village strung along the southern shore, with a harbor, a small beach and a steady trade in boats and ice cream. Just outside, The Fells, a hillside estate built by John Hay, who was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary and later Secretary of State, offers lawns and gardens that look across the lake toward the mountain. Hay called the house his summer retreat, and the gardens are open to visitors in season, with views that explain why he came back every year.
For riders, the ring road around the lake is the draw. Route 103 and Route 103A run along the shoreline and through the villages, on a surface that is mostly good, with moderate curves and a few short climbs. Route 103A hugs the eastern shore, a slower and prettier lane through woods with glimpses of water between the trees, and it is the quieter of the two. Weekends in July and August bring heavy lake traffic, with boat trailers and cars on the narrow lanes, so mornings and shoulder season are best.
Fuel is available in some villages, but the larger supermarkets and stations are in Newport and Claremont, so top up there if you can. The Sunapee Harbor area has restaurants and an ice-cream stand by the water, which is the natural place for a break. The best months are June and late September, when the water is clear, the crowds are thin and the light is long, and foliage in early October is spectacular, with the mountain's slopes reflected in still water. Deer and the occasional moose are a concern at dawn and dusk, particularly on the more wooded lanes.