A volcano that has killed on a scale most people never forget makes for a sobering ride. Nevado del Ruiz rises to about 5,320 metres in the Central Cordillera, in the Los Nevados National Natural Park above Manizales, and in November 1985 an eruption melted part of its ice cap and sent mudflows down the river valleys, burying the town of Armero and killing more than twenty thousand people. It remains an active volcano under close watch, and the park authorities close access when activity rises, so check before you set out.
The approach from Manizales is a magnificent climb. You ride up from the coffee slopes, through the town of Villamaría, and into cloud forest where the road bends constantly through mist, ferns and tree trunks furred with moss. Higher up, the trees give way to páramo and the plants change to frailejones and tough tussock grass, while the temperature drops sharply. The road reaches well over 4,000 metres, so thin air will take a few horsepower from the engine and a lot more from you.
Weather is the main character. Clear mornings can turn to fog and rain by noon, and wind on the exposed ridges is cold enough to chill through any jacket. Aim to be riding early, bring waterproofs and warm gloves, and treat the surface with care, as damp stretches and potholes appear above the tree line. The thermal springs on the way down, heated by the volcano, are a welcome end to a cold day, though avoid long soaks at altitude if you are feeling light-headed.
Murillo, Herveo and Villahermosa are the small mountain towns nearest the gate, with a few thousand people each, and none is a safe bet for a pump, so use the stations in Manizales or Villamaría before climbing, a good thirty kilometres below. Coffee farms around Manizales offer tours and tastings, and local bakeries sell plain, filling food to carry. Respect the signs and the guards at the entrance, since they know the mountain's moods better than you do.