Neustadt an der Weinstraße sits where the wooded hills of the Palatinate Forest drop down to the wide, sunny plain of the Rhine, and it is the unofficial capital of the German Wine Route, which runs for about eighty-five kilometres along the edge of the hills from the French border to the north. The town has an old centre of half-timbered houses, narrow lanes and wine taverns, and around it vineyards stretch in every direction, with small wine villages like Gimmeldingen and Haardt just above the town.
Above Neustadt, on a wooded hill, stands Hambach Castle, and it holds a special place in German history. In May 1832, about thirty thousand people marched up to the castle to demand freedom, democracy and national unity, waving black, red and gold flags, and the Hambach Festival is remembered as the birth of the German democratic movement. The castle has a museum telling the story, and the view over the plain and the vineyards from the walls is superb.
The town is also the home of German wine celebrations. Every autumn, the German Wine Harvest Festival in Neustadt crowns the German Wine Queen, and the streets fill with stalls, music and wine. The Palatinate is one of Germany's largest wine regions, known for its Riesling, but also for Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and other varieties, and the climate here is so mild that almonds, figs and even lemons grow in sheltered gardens. Try a glass of wine with Saumagen, a stuffed pig's stomach that is the local speciality.
The riding is varied. The Wine Route itself is a gentle road through vineyards and villages, often busy with cars, cyclists and tourists, especially during harvest season. The roads into the Palatinate Forest are much more exciting, with tight curves, steep climbs and long stretches through beech and pine woods. The Kalmit, at 673 metres the highest peak in the forest, has a winding road to the summit, popular with riders. However, some roads in the area have speed limits and noise restrictions because of complaints from residents, so ride responsibly.
Neustadt has fuel, food and every service, and it is a lively town with plenty of places to eat and drink. Stop at a wine tavern, sit under a vine-covered pergola and enjoy a glass of Riesling with something hearty.