King Ludwig II of Bavaria began building Neuschwanstein in 1869 as a private dream, a medieval knight's castle with all the comforts of the nineteenth century, including central heating and running water. He never saw it finished, and he lived there for only a handful of months. In 1886 he was declared unfit to rule and removed, and he died a few days later in the Starnberger See, in circumstances that are still debated. Within weeks the castle was opened to the public to pay off his debts, and it has been admired ever since. Walt Disney's designers are said to have taken inspiration from it.
The setting is superb. The castle perches on a rocky ridge above the Pöllat gorge, with the Alps rising behind and the plain of the Allgäu and its lakes stretched in front. Ludwig's boyhood home, Hohenschwangau, lies just below, and the Alpsee shines beside it. The best view comes from the Marienbrücke, a narrow steel bridge over the gorge, a short walk from the castle, but it is crowded in high season, with queues of visitors. Inside, the throne hall and the singers' hall, painted with scenes from Wagner's operas, are elaborate, and only guided tours are allowed.
Riding here is a pleasure, as the Romantic Road and the Alpine edge are two of Germany's great motorcycle areas. From Füssen the road climbs toward the Austrian border and the Fern Pass, with smooth surfaces, long bends and views of snowy peaks. Weekends in summer are crowded with bikes, cars and tour buses, and the police are attentive, so early mornings are better. Rain can come suddenly in the mountains, and in winter the roads can be icy. In spring and autumn the light is soft and the lakes are calm.
The nearest place for fuel and supplies is Füssen, about four kilometres away, a pretty old town with a monastery, a castle and plenty of cafés, and Schwangau itself, a village with hotels and restaurants. Tickets to the castle are timed, and booking in advance is wise, since the walk up from the car park takes some half an hour. Try a Käsespätzle, the Allgäu cheese noodles, or a slice of cake with coffee in the village. Parking for motorcycles is available near the ticket centre, and wet gear can be left in lockers.