In 1787 a great fire destroyed most of Neuruppin, and the town was rebuilt on a grid, in a clean neoclassical style, with wide streets and a large parade ground. The plan, drawn up by royal officials, gives the place an unusual openness, and walking through it you can feel the order of the Enlightenment. The lake side of the town, however, kept its old character, and the lakefront is where you want to eat.
Neuruppin has about thirty-two thousand people and is the largest town for many kilometres, so it has all the services: fuel, supermarkets, bike shops and a hospital. The lakefront, along the Ruppiner See, is a promenade of cafes, ice-cream stands and restaurants with terraces, and boats of all sorts bob along the quay. There is a spa on the shore, using the local brine, and a pleasant beach in summer.
Food options are plentiful, and the best are the simple ones. Fresh fish from the lake, such as zander and perch, is served grilled or fried, with potatoes and salad. Smoked eel is a regional delicacy. Brandenburg also loves its asparagus in spring, its mushrooms in autumn and its plum cake in late summer, and most menus reflect the season. Prices are reasonable, and portions are generous.
The riding around the town is easy and pleasant. Roads along the lake and through the forest are well surfaced, with gentle curves and light traffic outside the holiday season. In July and August, the lakefront fills with visitors, and you may need patience to find parking. Weekday lunchtimes in spring and autumn are the best moments.
Take your time. Sit at a table by the water, order something fried, and watch the boats. The light on the lake changes through the afternoon, and the wind ruffles the surface. It is a good place to spend an hour doing very little.