Neryungri exists because of coal. In the 1970s, geologists and builders arrived in the empty taiga of southern Yakutia to open one of the largest open-cast coal mines in the Soviet Union, and a new city grew beside it, with straight avenues, apartment blocks and a power station. Today it is a town of about sixty-six thousand, and the biggest settlement for a very long way in any direction. Serebryany Bor, a smaller satellite town on the river, lies a short distance away.
For a rider coming up the Lena Highway from the south, or along the Amur-Yakutsk road, this is a landmark in every sense. There is fuel, there are cafes, there is a mechanic who has seen a hundred tired trucks, and there are beds. The road north toward Yakutsk is long, remote and very much a test of preparation: stretches of excellent tarmac alternate with gravel, mud and construction, the distances between fuel stops can be several hours, and the weather is extreme. Summer brings heat, dust and mosquitoes, and winter brings temperatures that freeze everything. The best time is July to early September.
The landscape here is the southern edge of the great Siberian taiga, with larch, pine and birch covering low hills, wide marshy valleys and rivers that run brown with peat. Permafrost lies under much of the ground, and the buildings in town stand on piles driven deep into it to avoid melting the frozen soil. The air in summer smells of warm resin and wet moss, and in autumn the larch turns gold before shedding its needles, one of the few conifers to do so.
The area's story is tied closely to the Baikal-Amur Mainline railway, which passes through Tynda to the south and brought the heavy machinery. The Yakut, or Sakha, people have lived in the region for centuries, herding horses and cattle and hunting, and their culture is visible in place names, food and festivals. The city's cafes may serve Yakut specialities such as frozen fish and horse meat dishes, and a bowl of hot soup is welcome.
Before leaving, fill up completely and carry spare fuel if you are heading north. Bring repair gear and a warm layer, and let someone know your plans, since mobile coverage can be patchy.