Nelson claims to be one of the sunniest places in New Zealand, and the locals say it with the smugness of people who have earned it. The city sits at the top of the South Island on Tasman Bay, with a wide sheltered beach, a backdrop of hills and the mountains of Kahurangi and Abel Tasman beyond. About fifty-nine thousand people live here, and it has a reputation for craft beer, pottery, galleries and a general willingness to take life slowly.
The city was founded in 1841 by the New Zealand Company, and a hilltop monument marks the supposed geographical centre of the country, reached by a short walk up Botanical Hill. Long before the settlers came, Māori had lived along the bay, and the sheltered coastline and fertile land were prized. Today the area is a centre for hops, apples, kiwifruit and seafood, and the nearby Mapua wharf has smoked fish and ice cream.
For riders, Nelson is the gateway to two excellent roads. Eastward, State Highway 6 climbs over the Rai Saddle and runs through forest to Pelorus Bridge and Havelock, the green-lipped mussel capital, from where the winding Queen Charlotte Drive, with the sounds spread below, leads to Picton. Westward and north, State Highway 60 climbs Takaka Hill to roughly 800 metres on a series of hairpins, through limestone and marble country dotted with caves and sinkholes, and drops into Golden Bay, where beaches are wide and quiet. Both roads are twisty and scenic, and both can be foggy or wet. Slips and roadworks sometimes close sections after heavy rain, so check before committing, and be careful of gravel on corners and logging trucks.
Practically, Nelson has everything. Fuel is plentiful in town and in nearby Richmond, with more than fourteen thousand people, and the cafes of the city centre are a good place for a long breakfast before a big day. Fuel on the Takaka Hill route is limited, so fill before leaving. The best seasons are late spring and early autumn, when the days are clear and warm, and the summer crowds are thin.