Needles takes its name from the jagged pinnacles that rise above the Colorado River on the Arizona side, and it is one of the hottest places in the United States, where summer temperatures regularly climb above forty-five degrees. Behind the town, the Needles peaks stand in a jagged row, and to the east the river curves in blue loops through the brown desert.
The town grew up with the railway. The Santa Fe line reached the Colorado in the 1880s, and the old Harvey House, El Garcés, a Spanish Colonial building of 1908 beside the tracks, once served travellers as a hotel and restaurant. It has been restored in recent years and is a good place to start. Needles was also the town where the Joad family in The Grapes of Wrath crossed the river on their way to California, and John Steinbeck described the desert and the dread of the crossing. Snoopy's brother Spike, from the Peanuts comic strip, lives here, and the town has a small tribute to him.
For a rider, the old Route 66 here is a relic. Beyond the town, the road runs through the Mojave, with long straight stretches, empty horizons and dry washes, and the surface varies between smooth and rough. In summer, the heat is serious, with temperatures that can exceed the tolerance of both bikes and riders, so start before dawn, carry plenty of water and avoid the middle of the day. In winter and spring, the weather is mild and the desert blooms with flowers after rain. Side roads lead to old mining camps and the Colorado River, where boats and fishing are popular.
Fuel, food and rest are easy in town, with several petrol stations, diners and motels along the main street. Bullhead City, thirty-four kilometres away, has more, and the next services in California, along the road to Barstow, are well spaced, so fill the tank and carry water before heading west. Look for a classic diner serving burgers, shakes and pie.
The sunsets here are huge and red. Park near the river, watch the light fade on the Needles and listen to the freight trains rumbling through the dusk. It is the very picture of the American West.