Bonorva sits on the edge of a high plateau in central-northern Sardinia, a town of grey stone looking out over the plain of Santa Lucia. Around it, the land is dotted with prehistoric remains, and the necropolis of Sa Pala Larga is one of several groups of domus de janas cut into the rock in this area. The rock-cut tombs are older than the nuraghi, and many have intricate interiors.
The most spectacular nearby is Sant'Andrea Priu, a few kilometres east of Bonorva, a large domus de janas in a rock face that was later converted into a church in the early Christian and Byzantine period, with frescoes painted on the walls of the tomb chambers. The combination of a Neolithic tomb and a Christian chapel makes it one of the most unusual sites on the island.
A little to the north, near Torralba, is the Nuraghe Santu Antine, one of the most impressive nuraghi in Sardinia, with a tall central tower and a triangular bastion. The plain around is known as the Valle dei Nuraghi because of the many towers scattered across it. It is a landscape layered with history.
The riding around Bonorva is varied. The SS131, the main north-south road on the island, passes close by, fast and efficient. Better are the smaller roads that climb onto the Campeda plateau, a high, windswept tableland with cork oak woods, pastures and few houses, where the views stretch for miles. The roads here are generally quiet, with long straights and sweeping bends, though the wind can be strong and gusty. Heading west towards the coast, the roads drop through hills and valleys towards Bosa, a colourful town on the river Temo, and the coast road from Bosa to Alghero is one of the best rides in Sardinia.
Bonorva has fuel, shops and bars. The area is known for its cheeses, particularly pecorino, and for hearty mountain cooking, including roast suckling pig and lamb. The weather on the plateau can be cooler than on the coast, with fog in winter and strong winds at any time. Spring and early summer are ideal, when the fields are green and the air is fresh. Bring a torch to peer into the tombs, and take your time; this is a landscape that rewards patience.