In central Sardinia, on a slope above the village of Sedilo, a cluster of rock-cut tombs opens into the hillside like a row of small dark doorways. These are domus de janas, "houses of the fairies" in the local language, burial chambers carved into the soft rock by the island's prehistoric inhabitants several thousand years ago. Ispiluncas is one of the larger groups, with tombs of varied plans, some with multiple chambers and carved details imitating the beams and doorframes of houses. In 2025 the domus de janas were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, recognising one of the most distinctive funerary traditions in the Mediterranean.
Sedilo is best known for something much louder. Every July the village holds the Ardia, a wild horse race in honour of San Costantino, the Roman emperor Constantine, who is venerated locally as a saint. Riders gallop at breakneck speed around the sanctuary, protected by escorts firing blanks, and the whole thing is chaotic, dangerous and deeply rooted in local identity. The sanctuary of San Costantino stands on a ridge outside the village, overlooking Lake Omodeo, a large reservoir formed by damming the Tirso river.
The riding in this part of Sardinia is excellent. The roads around Lake Omodeo and up toward the plateau of Abbasanta and Macomer wind through cork oak woods, rocky outcrops and pasture, with long, flowing bends, light traffic and good surfaces in most places. Head east and the country rises into the Barbagia, with steeper climbs and tighter corners. Summer heat can be intense, with the air heavy with the smell of dry grass and myrtle, so ride early or late. Watch out for sheep, cattle and the occasional wild boar, especially at dusk.
Sedilo has a few bars and shops, but for fuel and more services, head for Ghilarza, Abbasanta or Macomer, which has around ten thousand inhabitants. Local food is hearty: roast suckling pig, pecorino, flatbread, and robust red wines. Park near the necropolis, walk among the tombs, and peer into the dark chambers, imagining the people who carved them with stone tools. Then ride down to the lake shore for a cool break before continuing your loop.