In the second century AD, after the failed revolts against Rome, the centre of Jewish life moved to Galilee, and the Sanhedrin, the supreme rabbinical council, settled for a time at Bet She'arim, on a hill at the western edge of the Jezreel valley. Rabbi Judah ha-Nasi, the patriarch who compiled the Mishnah, the first great codification of Jewish law, lived here, and when he was buried in the necropolis, Jews from all over the diaspora wanted to be buried near him. The result is a vast network of catacombs carved into the soft limestone, listed by UNESCO in 2015.
The catacombs are fascinating. Long corridors lead into burial halls with stone sarcophagi decorated with menorahs, lions, eagles, shells and even scenes from Greek mythology, a reminder of how deeply Jewish culture of the time was influenced by the Hellenistic world. Inscriptions in Hebrew, Aramaic, Greek and Palmyrene record the names and origins of the deceased, some from as far away as Yemen and Mesopotamia. The cave of the coffins, with more than a hundred sarcophagi, is the most impressive. The park around the catacombs is green and shady, with oak and pine trees, and it is a lovely place for a picnic.
The area around Bet She'arim is mostly suburban and agricultural, with the town of Kiryat Tivon nearby and the Jezreel valley spreading out to the east, a flat, fertile plain of fields and orchards. The roads are good but busy, and Israeli driving can be assertive. Heading north, the roads climb into the hills of Lower Galilee toward Nazareth and Tzippori, an ancient city with beautiful mosaics, and west toward Haifa and the slopes of Mount Carmel. Summers are hot and humid, winters mild with occasional rain, and spring, when the hills are green and covered in wildflowers, is the most beautiful season.
Ramat Yishay, about four kilometres away, has fuel, shops and cafés, and Kiryat Tivon and Haifa offer more services. Before travelling, check the current security situation and travel advisories, as conditions in the region can change quickly. The site has a visitor centre and a café, and the staff can advise on the best routes through the catacombs.