Most people never imagine New Jersey like this: big hills, dense hardwood forest, granite ridges and deep, clear lakes, with barely a house in sight. The northern part of the state, along the border with New York, is the New Jersey Highlands, an old chain of rounded mountains, and this spot near West Milford, Ringwood and Greenwood Lake lies right in the middle of them. Black bears live here, and so do rattlesnakes, and much of the land is protected forest and state park.
Greenwood Lake straddles the state line, a long, narrow lake surrounded by wooded hills, with small towns and boat docks along its shores. Nearby lie Wawayanda State Park, with its own lake and miles of trails, and Ringwood State Park, which contains Ringwood Manor and the formal gardens of Skylands, the New Jersey state botanical garden. Iron mining was the business here from colonial times, and the forges and furnaces of the Highlands produced iron for the Continental Army during the Revolutionary War.
For a swim, the best bets are the designated public beaches. Wawayanda Lake has a swimming beach in summer, and Greenwood Lake has some public access points, although many beaches around the lakes are private or for residents only. Swimming is usually allowed only where lifeguards are on duty, and parking fees apply in season. The water is clean and pleasant, cooler in early summer and warm by August.
The riding here is excellent and justly popular. Roads such as Route 23, County Route 511 and the twisting lanes over the ridges between Greenwood Lake, Warwick and Vernon climb and drop through the forest, with tight bends, blind crests and occasional sweeping views over the hills. Surfaces vary; winter frost leaves potholes and patches, and leaves on the road in autumn can be slippery. Deer are everywhere, especially at dawn and dusk. On summer weekends, bikers and day-trippers fill the roads and the lakeside cafes.
West Milford and the surrounding towns have fuel, delis and places to eat, and a few lakeside spots serve burgers and cold drinks. From here, the run back to the city follows Route 23 or the backroads south through Butler and Wayne, where traffic thickens quickly on the approach to the highways.