Route 413, the Dōshi road, is the motorcycle road of western Kanagawa. It runs from Sagamihara up the long, narrow valley of the Dōshi river to Lake Yamanaka at the foot of Fuji, and on a weekend morning the parade of bikes heading west is almost continuous. This stop lies in that valley, south of Uenohara, where the river runs clear and green between forested slopes and the villages are strung out along the road.
The Dōshi river is famous for its water. It is cold, clean and fast, tumbling over boulders and pooling in deep green basins, and in summer the riverside campsites fill with families from Tokyo who come to paddle, fish and barbecue. For a rider, a riverside stop with boots off and feet in the water is the best kind of break. Swimming is possible in the calmer pools, but the current is strong after rain, and the water is very cold, even in August.
The road itself is a joy, with a rhythm of bends that follow the river, good surfaces and long stretches without junctions. It is also busy and closely watched by police, especially at weekends. Watch for cars stopping suddenly at campsites, cyclists on the climbs, and gravel washed onto the road after storms. In winter, ice lingers on the shaded sections.
Lake Miyagase, the reservoir at the eastern end of the valley, is a popular stop with a large park and views over the water. At the western end, the road climbs to the Yamabushi pass and drops to Lake Yamanaka, with Fuji suddenly filling the view.
Fuel is limited in the valley. Fill up in Sagamihara or at Lake Yamanaka, and do not count on the small stations in between. The roadside stations, michi-no-eki, sell local vegetables, soft ice cream and grilled river fish.