The strange label is a hostel name that a map database has turned into a town; the real place here is Quito, the capital of Ecuador, stretched along a narrow valley at about 2,850 metres, almost exactly on the equator, with the volcano Pichincha rising directly above the western side of the city. Quito is long and thin, perhaps forty kilometres from end to end but only a few wide, squeezed between mountains, and it has a population of nearly two million.
The old town is one of the best preserved colonial centres in the Americas, and in 1978 it was among the first places in the world to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its churches are astonishing, especially La Compañía, whose interior is covered in gold leaf, and the streets around the Plaza Grande are full of life, with street vendors, shoe shiners and old men sitting in the sun. A cable car, the TelefériQo, climbs the slopes of Pichincha to nearly four thousand metres, with views over the city and, on clear days, the volcanoes. About twenty-five kilometres north, the Mitad del Mundo monument marks the equator, though GPS shows the true line is a short distance away.
The Avenue of the Volcanoes is the name the German explorer Alexander von Humboldt gave to the long valley that runs south from Quito between two chains of the Andes, lined with snow-capped volcanoes. Cotopaxi, at nearly 5,900 metres one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, is the most famous, with a perfect cone of snow, and others like Chimborazo, Tungurahua and the Illinizas rise along the way. The Pan-American Highway runs through the valley, and smaller roads climb to the national parks and mountain villages.
Riding in Quito is a challenge. Traffic is heavy and chaotic, with buses, taxis and trucks, and the steep, winding streets can be confusing. The altitude affects both you and your bike, and the weather changes quickly, with sun in the morning and rain in the afternoon. Once you leave the city, though, the roads are spectacular, with mountain passes, deep valleys and views of the volcanoes.
Quito has fuel, food and every service, and the city has excellent restaurants, from street food to fine dining. Try locro de papa, a creamy potato soup with cheese and avocado, and take time to acclimatise before heading for the high passes.