Few places in Western Europe feel as empty as the high plateau of Guadalajara. This stop lies between Torrecuadradilla, Canredondo and Abánades, villages that once held hundreds of people and now count their year-round residents in dozens. The land is a high, rolling plateau of cereal fields, juniper and holm oak, cut by deep river valleys, with huge skies and very little traffic.
The rivers are the jewels. The Tajuña rises in this area and flows west through a narrow valley, and near Abánades it winds past poplars and meadows, with small pools where locals cool off in summer. Further east, the Alto Tajo natural park protects one of the wildest gorges in Spain, with cliffs, pine forests and the young Tagus running green and clear. Swimming in these rivers is possible in places, but the water is cold, and some areas are restricted. Look for local signs.
History is everywhere, though quiet. Sigüenza, to the north-west, is a medieval town with a fortress-like cathedral, where the tomb of the Doncel, a young knight killed in the wars against Granada, shows him reading a book, one of the most famous Spanish sculptures. The villages around have Romanesque churches and stone houses, many falling into ruin.
The riding is superb for those who like solitude. The roads are narrow, winding and often empty, with good surfaces in places and potholes in others. The plateau is high, so expect cold mornings even in summer, and in winter snow and ice can close the roads.
Fuel is the main concern. Stations are few and far between, and Guadalajara is nearly an hour away. Fill up whenever you can, in Sigüenza, Cifuentes or the larger villages, and carry water. Food is simple and hearty: roast lamb, migas and honey from the Alcarria, famous across Spain.