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Near Tawang

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Tawang is a town at 3,000 metres in the far west of Arunachal Pradesh, wedged between Bhutan and Tibet, and it is the destination that makes the long journey from Tezpur worthwhile. Above it, on a ridge, stands Tawang Monastery, the largest in India and one of the largest in the world, founded in the seventeenth century by Merak Lama Lodre Gyatso. It belongs to the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, and the sixth Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso, is said to have been born near here. The Monpa people who live in the district are Buddhist, and the town feels more Tibetan than Indian in its prayer wheels and chanting.

The road to get here crosses the Sela Pass at around 4,170 metres, then drops through Jang and climbs again. It is a serious mountain road, with sections that are narrow and damaged by landslides and snow, and military convoys use it as well. Weather changes fast: bright sun, then fog or sleet within an hour. In winter, snow can close the pass completely, so the practical window is from about April to October. Even then, carry warm layers, and do not rush the altitude.

Fuel is a point to watch. Tawang itself has pumps, but supplies can run short, and the long stretches between Dirang and Tawang do not offer much, so fill whenever you can. The town has hotels and guesthouses, and there is simple food: momos, thukpa and butter tea, plus yak cheese in the local style. At this altitude, evenings are cold even in summer, and you will want a proper jacket.

The quiet at the monastery is memorable. Young monks play in the courtyard, butter lamps flicker, and from the terrace you see snow peaks across the valley. Take time to walk, drink tea and let the altitude settle. The border region is sensitive, so carry ID and permits at all times, and avoid photographing military sites. The ride ends here, but you will want a day to stay.

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