St Anton is the village where alpine skiing as the world knows it was invented, or at least codified. In the 1920s, the local ski teacher Hannes Schneider, building on the Arlberg technique, taught generations of skiers to turn on steep slopes, and his school became famous across Europe. Today, the village of fewer than two thousand people sits at the head of the Stanzer valley in Tyrol, at about 1,300 metres, with the great ridge of the Arlberg massif rising on all sides. In winter it is one of the liveliest ski resorts in the Alps, famous for its steep terrain and noisy, lively après-ski.
Summer is quieter, and for riders, perhaps better. The valley is green, the high meadows are full of flowers, and the streets are calmer, with a few shops open, a clutch of good restaurants, and cafes with terraces. The old railway station is a handsome landmark, and the Arlberg rail tunnel, finished in 1884, opened the region to the world. The road tunnel beneath the pass, nearly fourteen kilometres long, opened in 1978 and carries the main traffic, and a toll is charged to use it. Most riders choose the old road over the pass, which is free and much prettier.
The village has fuel, shops and plenty of places to eat, and it is the best base for the surrounding roads. Going west, the pass road climbs to the Arlberg Pass and then to Lech and Zürs. East, the road runs down the valley to Landeck, about twenty-three kilometres away, with the Inn valley beyond. Tyrol's food is hearty, with Kaiserschmarrn, a shredded pancake with raisins and fruit compote, Tiroler Gröstl, a pan of potatoes, bacon and egg, and Kasspatzln, small cheese dumplings. After a day's riding, they are exactly right.
The weather here is mountain weather. Mornings can be clear and cool, and afternoons bring cloud and thunderstorms, especially in July and August. Snow can come early in autumn and linger late in spring, and the high roads are closed in winter. Be ready for cold at the passes, even if it is warm in the village.
Parking in the centre is easy outside the ski season, and a walk along the main street, with the mountains above, is a good way to stretch. The cable car to the Valluga, a high summit, offers wide views.