West of Seogwipo, the southern slopes of Hallasan run down to the sea in long, gentle ramps, and the land here is sheltered, warm and green. Hallasan, the volcano at the heart of the island, is South Korea's highest mountain at 1,947 metres, and on this side its summit often stands clear above the clouds that gather on the northern slopes. Below it are tangerine orchards, greenhouses, small villages and the resort district of Jungmun on the coast, with big hotels and a stretch of beach.
The tangerines are the local signature. Seogwipo is the centre of Jeju's citrus growing, and in late autumn and winter the orchards are bright with fruit, stalls line the roads, and the smell of peel hangs over the villages. The fruit was once sent to the royal court as tribute, and today the island grows many varieties, including the sweet hallabong, named after the mountain and shaped with a little knob on top.
The coast nearby has one of Jeju's most striking sights: Jusangjeolli, a cliff of hexagonal basalt columns where lava flowed into the sea and cooled into vertical pillars. On rough days waves crash against the columns and send spray high into the air. Further east, closer to Seogwipo itself, waterfalls such as Cheonjiyeon and Jeongbang drop over volcanic cliffs, the latter falling straight into the sea.
For riding, the roads here are a mix: the coastal road is busy near the resorts, but the roads that climb towards the mountain, through forest and fields, offer more interesting curves and much less traffic. The mid-mountain roads that cross the island, passing over the shoulders of Hallasan, are popular with riders, with good surfaces and views back to the sea, though fog and rain can come in fast. Summer is hot and humid with occasional typhoons, so spring and autumn are the best seasons. Seogwipo, about fourteen kilometres away, is the town for fuel, food and a bed, and it has a lively market where you can try local snacks, including tangerine everything.