Santo Domingo is a mountain village in the Venezuelan state of Mérida, strung along the river of the same name as it tumbles down from the high Andes toward the plains. The altitude here is already considerable, and the air smells of wet earth, wood smoke, and pine. For a rider coming up from the lowlands, this is where the road changes character, from tropical heat to cool cloud forest, with mist rolling over the ridges and the temperature falling with every hairpin.
The Trans-Andean Highway, known locally as the Trasandina, was built to link the plains of Barinas with the high cities of Mérida, and it crosses the Andes over one of the highest roads in the country. Santo Domingo marks the point at which the climb begins in earnest. The valley narrows, the slopes steepen, and the road follows the river through terraced fields, small farms, and cloud forest thick with ferns and orchids. Trout from the cold streams are a local speciality, and a plate of fish with potatoes is a good reward after a long ascent.
The riding is demanding but wonderful. The road climbs through a long series of bends, some tight and some flowing, with steep drops on the outside and often poor visibility in mist. The surface can be uneven, with potholes, rockslides, and patches of wet leaves, and heavy trucks use the road. Daytime riding is strongly advisable, and fog can arrive in minutes. Higher up, temperatures drop sharply, and a waterproof layer and warm gloves are essential even in a country that is mostly tropical.
Practical matters need honesty. Fuel supply in Venezuela has been unreliable in recent years, and the safest approach is to carry a reserve and fill up whenever possible. The nearest large town on the map is Barinitas, about thirty-three kilometres back down the valley, and it is best to check local conditions and security before travelling. Bring cash, spare parts, and patience. The best season is the dry months from December to March, when the skies are clearer, while the rainy season can bring landslides and low cloud. The welcome from the people of the mountains, though, tends to be warm.