North-east of Nan city, the hills begin in earnest, and the district of Santi Suk is where the flat farmland of the Nan valley gives way to the forested ridges that run towards Bo Kluea and the Lao border. The country here is a patchwork of rice paddies in the valley bottoms, corn fields on the slopes, and patches of forest on the ridges, with small villages of wooden houses on stilts. The landscape is green in the rainy season and brown and smoky in the dry months, when farmers burn their fields.
Nan is one of Thailand's least visited provinces, and that is part of its charm. It was a semi-independent kingdom for centuries, with close ties to Laos, and it only became part of Siam in the early twentieth century. Nan city, about thirty kilometres away, has some of the finest temples in the north, including Wat Phumin, with its cross-shaped hall and murals showing scenes of daily life, among them a famous image of a couple whispering that has become a symbol of the city.
The riding here is on Highway 1081, which runs north-east from Nan towards Bo Kluea. It starts gently, following rivers and passing through villages, then begins to climb into the hills with long sweeping bends and short steep sections. The asphalt is decent and the traffic thin, but expect motorbikes, pick-up trucks and the occasional dog or water buffalo in the road. The road is popular with Thai riders, especially in the cool season from November to February, when the air is clear and the mornings are misty.
There are small shops and restaurants in Santi Suk and the villages along the road, but the nearest large town with all services is Nan itself, and Chiang Klang to the north is also a good option. Fuel is available in the larger villages, but it is wise to fill up whenever you can. Local food includes khao soi, the northern curry noodle soup, and sticky rice with grilled meats and spicy dips. Set off early, while mist still lies in the valleys and before the heat builds.