Sano ramen is the first thing to say about this corner of Tochigi. The town is known across Japan for noodles that are flat, springy and kneaded by bamboo poles, served in a clear soy broth that tastes clean and slightly sweet. It also has a famous outlet mall and a temple devoted to warding off bad luck, so the town has a steady flow of visitors.
The terrain is the plain of the Watarase and Tone rivers, marked by drainage channels, levees and rice, with the edge of the Ryōmō hills rising to the north. A few kilometres west, Tatebayashi is known for two things. In spring, the azaleas of Tsutsujigaoka Park bloom in thousands, some of them hundreds of years old, and a festival draws visitors from all over the Kantō. The Morin-ji temple preserves the folk tale of the Bunbuku Chagama, a tanuki that turned into a tea kettle and brought good fortune to a poor priest. It is a cheerful bit of local lore.
South-east of here, the Watarase retention basin is a large wetland where four prefectures meet, built to control flooding and now registered as a Ramsar site, a good place for reeds, herons and migrating birds. In winter, harriers hunt over the reeds and the whole area has a stark beauty. This is not the Japan of mountains and temples but a quiet, productive heartland of vegetables and rice, and the landscape rewards slow looking.
For riders, the roads are flat and straight, which suits an early start from Tokyo before heading to the hills. Fuel is easy, with Sano, Tatebayashi and Fujioka all within a short ride and plenty of stations along the main roads. Ride with attention to crossings, since farm traffic and local drivers do not always look. Pick a hot day and the plain can be oppressive, so take your time and keep water on the bike. In November, when the harvest is done and the air is clear, the views to the mountains are some of the best of the year.