The Macedon Ranges rise abruptly from the plains north-west of Melbourne, a cluster of old volcanic hills covered in forests, gardens and farmland, and this stop is on their north-eastern side, near the small town of Romsey. Just to the west stands Hanging Rock, a jagged volcanic formation made famous by Joan Lindsay's novel Picnic at Hanging Rock and Peter Weir's 1975 film, about a group of schoolgirls who vanish during a picnic on Valentine's Day in 1900. The story is fiction, but the rock has an eerie atmosphere, and the walk to the top is worth it.
Mount Macedon, the highest point of the ranges, is crowned by a large memorial cross, and the slopes below are dotted with grand old gardens, laid out by wealthy Melbourne families in the late nineteenth century as summer retreats from the heat of the city. In autumn, the European trees in these gardens turn red and gold, a sight that draws visitors from all over Victoria. The region is also known for its cool-climate wines, especially sparkling wines and Pinot Noir.
Honesty about the swimming: this is not a land of beaches, and swimming spots are limited. There are reservoirs, but many are water supply catchments where swimming is not allowed. Some towns have public pools, and in summer the creeks have the odd pool, though they can be shallow and muddy. If you need a swim on a hot day, ask locally or consider a detour to a town pool.
On the way back to Melbourne from the Grampians, the roads through the Macedon Ranges are a pleasant alternative to the Calder Freeway, winding through forests and farmland, with good views. They can be narrow, with tight bends and wildlife, especially kangaroos at dawn and dusk. Romsey, Lancefield and Woodend have fuel, cafés and bakeries. The ranges are cooler and wetter than the plains, so bring a layer, even in summer.