On the eastern side of Riez, the Valensole plateau starts to tip down toward the Verdon, and this point lies in that open country between Riez, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and the great turquoise reservoir of the Lac de Sainte-Croix. It is a land of wide fields and big skies, where in June and July the lavender fields bloom in long purple rows, filling the air with a scent so strong you can smell it through your helmet.
Riez is a small, old town with a surprising past. It was a Roman settlement, and four tall granite columns from a Roman temple still stand in a field on its edge, looking oddly out of place among the vines. The town also has a rare early Christian baptistery, one of the oldest buildings of its kind in France. The old town is a maze of narrow streets and faded houses, quiet most of the year.
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a few kilometres east, ranks high on any list of Provençal villages, clinging to a gap in the cliffs at the edge of the Verdon gorges. A golden star hangs on a long chain stretched across the gap high above the village, and legend says it was put there by a knight returning from the Crusades. Moustiers is also famous for its decorated earthenware, faience, made here since the seventeenth century.
The riding around here is a delight in a quieter way than the gorge itself. The roads across the plateau, such as the D952 and D11, are open, fast and flowing, with long views over the fields to the mountains. Down toward the lake, the roads twist through oak scrub and limestone, and the D957 crosses the lake on a bridge at the mouth of the gorge, with views of the turquoise water and cliffs. In July and August, traffic is heavy, and lavender season brings crowds of photographers parking on the verges.
Riez has a few cafes, shops and a fuel station, and Moustiers has restaurants and cafes. The nearest larger town is Digne-les-Bains, about thirty kilometres north. In summer, the lake is perfect for a swim, with beaches and clear water, so pack your swimsuit.