Near the southern end of the Lofoten Islands, the road crosses a series of bridges and islets into Reine, a tiny fishing village of a few hundred people, with red and white cabins scattered along the shore of a fjord, and granite peaks rising straight from the water all around. It is often called one of the most beautiful villages in the world, and when you see it on a clear day, you will not argue.
Above the village, the peak of Reinebringen offers one of the most famous views in Norway, over Reine, the fjords and the mountains. The path up was once steep and dangerous, but Nepalese Sherpas built a stone staircase of nearly two thousand steps, and now it is a hard but safe climb. Nearby, the village of Hamnøy and the island of Sakrisøy, with its yellow cabins, are favourite spots for photographers, especially in winter, when the peaks are covered in snow and the northern lights dance overhead.
At the very end of the road, beyond Reine, lies the village of Å, with a stockfish museum and old fishermen's cabins, and beyond that, the Moskstraumen, one of the strongest tidal currents in the world, a whirlpool that inspired Edgar Allan Poe and Jules Verne to write about the maelstrom. Ferries run from Moskenes, near Reine, to Bodø on the mainland, across the open sea.
The riding is beautiful but demanding. The E10 is narrow, with tight bends, tunnels and single-lane bridges, and it is busy with tourists in summer, many stopping on the bridges to take photos. The wind can be strong, especially on the bridges and exposed stretches, and the weather changes quickly. Watch for sheep, cyclists and campervans.
Services are limited at this end of the islands. There are small shops and cafés in Reine and the nearby villages, but fuel is scarce, and Leknes, further east, is the main service town. Fill up before heading south. Find a spot on the rocks, look at the reflections of the peaks in the still water, and you will understand why people travel so far to see this place.