South of Queenstown, the land runs along the eastern shore of Lake Wakatipu, between the water and the jagged wall of the Remarkables, and the road towards Kingston follows the lake for long kilometres. It is one of the most spectacular roads in New Zealand, with the lake on one side, deep blue and long, and the mountains rising steeply on the other, their peaks snow-capped for much of the year.
The Remarkables are the defining sight. They are a range of steep, jagged peaks, their name chosen because they look so remarkable, and their western face rises almost straight from the lake. In winter, a ski field operates on their upper slopes, reached by a steep gravel road. Lake Wakatipu itself is long and narrow, shaped like a lightning bolt, and it is said to "breathe": the water rises and falls by several centimetres every few minutes, a seiche caused by wind and pressure. Maori legend tells that the lake was formed when a giant, Matau, was burned in his sleep, and that his heart still beats beneath the water.
The ride to Queenstown from Wanaka over the Crown Range is the highlight of the day. The Crown Range Road is the highest main sealed road in New Zealand, with a summit at 1,076 metres, and it climbs in tight hairpins above the Cardrona valley, with huge views across the Wakatipu basin from the top. It can be closed or icy in winter, and the hairpins on the Queenstown side are steep, so ride carefully. Traffic includes campervans driven by tourists who may not be used to the roads, so give them room.
Queenstown is a busy resort town, known for adventure sports, bungee jumping and skiing, and it has every service you could need: fuel, food, accommodation and bike shops. To the south, Kingston is a small lakeside village at the end of the lake, where a historic steam train, the Kingston Flyer, has run at times. The roads to the south continue towards Fiordland and Southland.
Stop at a lakeside pullout, take off your helmet and watch the light change on the Remarkables in the late afternoon. It is one of those views that make you understand why people move to the other side of the world.